Colorado Spa of the Rockies

Posted on 07/05/2012 by sustainablespy

I’ve written before about how the link between spa-ing and nature — eco-therapy — can have an enormously beneficial effect on our mental health. Small wonder then, that the natural hot springs in Colorado at Glenwood Springs, in the heart of the American Rocky Mountains, made me feel thoroughly blissed out and at one with nature.

The Ute Native Americans used to bathe in the hot springs and believed that the waters had sacred powers, thanks to the healing properties of the mineral-rich waters. It’s a smart way to look at it; how almost-magical, that just from bathing or drinking water, you can heal your body.

Glenwood Springs

The pool at Glenwood Springs is geo-thermally heated and packed with sulphur, potassium and magnesium, which means, yes, it does have a little bit of a rotten-egg smell, but you very quickly stop noticing that.

There are two kinds of experience going on at the springs. First, there’s the pool itself. It’s the largest of its kind in North America. I first tried it a few hours after I’d arrived, so I could experience it at sunset. The changing rooms are very municipal-bath-ish and it’s very basic, no luxury or frills of any kind at all. The pool is huge and it’s like stepping into a warm bath. The pool has a sloping floor, so I strode through the water to the end, so I could bob up and down, my shoulders under the water. I lay back and watched the light change on the red rocks of the mountains across from the spa. Golden, honey-coloured, then slowly fading away. It was magical. I dreamily wandered back to the shallow end and hopped into the smaller, hotter pool for a 20-minute soak. I had an amazing night’s sleep that night.

The next morning, I tried a daytime soak. I loved that there was yet another separate pool to swim in. I tried a swim but a combination of the altitude (Glenwood Springs is 5,763 feet above sea level; that’s more than a mile) and the warmth of the pool made me sluggish, and I found more than a few laps almost impossible. I liked that Glenwood Springs is clearly an all-ages experience. Seniors and children alike were enjoying the waters. This is no refined spa-pool. This is definitely a family day out.

The cafe attached to the spa serves basic cafeteria fodder, so I didn’t have particularly high hopes for the spa. I couldn’t have been more wrong. The Spa of the Rockies is a new development that felt, to me, very Willow Stream-ish. The reception was bright and clean with products a-plenty, and helpful, friendly staff. After filling in a consultation form, I was whisked to the lovely changing rooms through softly lit corridors complete with soothing art and thickly-carpeted floors. I love North American spas — they have changing rooms down to a fine art: hair products, tampax, cleanser, lashings of moisturisers; all wonderful.

Treatment room at The Spa of the Rockies

Then to the Serenity relaxation room, where I found dried fruit and nuts to snack on, delicious iced raspberry tea and soft cashmere blankets and day beds. I was almost sad when my therapist arrived. We went upstairs to a large and beautifully decorated room with its own fireplace.

I was down to try a full-body massage, and with my aching back and shoulders stiff after a long flight, couldn’t wait. Just wow. What a treatment. My therapist slipped hot pads over my tight muscles and a hot towel under my stiff neck. She massaged me with arnica and a eucalyptus-wintergreen oil blend to soothe and unwind those tight muscles. What an exceptional therapist. I’m embarrassed to say I went into that rare but lovely state of spa-bliss: somewhere between unconscious and asleep and oh, so very happy. My therapist’s experienced fingers dug deep into the knots around my neck, arms and shoulders. Although it was painful, I felt incredible the next day and have felt the benefits for weeks afterwards.

Amtrak’s California Zephyr train, which travels between Chicago and San Francisco, stops off just two minutes from the springs. If you’re in the USA and fancy a break with a difference, hop on board and let the train take the strain. See the country from the comfort of your own cabin then stop off to soak up some of that magical healing water at the Spa of the Rockies.

Find out more

* Spa of the Rockies
* Glenwood Springs Lodge
* Visit Colorado
* Amtrak

Elmwood Spa: Toronto’s Urban Oasis

Posted on 08/02/2012 by sustainablespy

Back on another trip to Canada for this Spa Spy… After falling in love with the Body Blitz spa on a previous trip, I couldn’t wait to see what else was on offer. There seems to be a curious amount of spas in Toronto, and the downtown Elmwood is one of the oldest, having been in business for 20 years. The spa is large, spread across five floors, and has two restaurants, a juice bar, 34 treatment rooms and water facilities including a pool, steam room and Jacuzzi.

I loved the whizzy new-tech touch of filling out a consultation form on one of the bank of screens in the bright reception. Checked in, it was time for a spa tour. Helpfully, each floor has a spa concierge, so if you’re wandering around, wrapped in robe and lost in a spa-haze, they’ll soon send you in the right direction.

Whirlpool in women's changing room

The changing room was spacious, complete with hairdryers and so on. I got changed into my fluffy robe and slippers and found my way to the waiting area for my treatment. My therapist collected me and whisked me off. I expected that she would have all the info that I had tapped into the system downstairs. Alas, she didn’t. It wasn’t a problem talking to her about a few of my allergies and sensitivities but it did make me wonder why I’d filled out that form.

That small grumble out of the way, it was on with my therapy: an absolutely outstanding facial which left my skin silky smooth and perfectly moisturised (which, after a long flight and endless hotel air-con, was very welcome). Elmwood have their own range of products, the Elmline range. I can’t recommend the Sensitive Gel enough. It’s cooling on flushed skin and helped calm my always too-red cheeks.

After my treatment, I checked out the juice bar, and sat cheerfully sipping on a freshly squeezed carrot, apple and ginger zinger.

After spending too many spa lunches either attracting strange looks as I was the only person dining in a robe, or having the hassle of changing and then robe-ing up again, it was great that the crisp-white-cloth-and-gleaming-silver restaurant on the top floor was a robes-only space. Lovely touch.

Elmwood is a really top-notch spa, complete with dipping pool, Jacuzzi and steam room, experienced therapists and great facilities. However, one thing that’s missing is a dedicated relaxation area. There are several spaces to sit, but nowhere to lie down for serious post- or pre-treatment zoning out. That aside, you could spend a fun day at the Elmwood; book a few treatments, stay for lunch, then have dinner in the Bangkok Garden Thai restaurant downstairs.

For a spa to have been in business for 20 years, they need to know what they are doing and the Elmwood certainly does. When I visited, the spa was buzzing with mums and daughters, couples, friends and solo spa-goers like myself. A good mixed group and a happy one, too.

Find out more: Elmwood Spa

Monte Carlo’s Fairmont Willow Stream Spa for PURE ener.g

Posted on 18/12/2011 by sustainablespy

I’m pretty much on-record as a fan of Fairmont’s Willow Stream spas. I like the soft touches that they have: fluffy blankets, plenty of fruit and citrus-water on offer in the relaxation rooms, excellent facilities in the changing rooms, and I enjoy the well-thought-out spa treatment menus, too. Willow Stream spas often have locally-inspired treatments and I love the chance to try something that’s unique to the area.

Along with Aromatherapy Associates, Willow Stream spas also work with Kerstin Florian products. They invited us out to the Fairmont in Monte Carlo, to get a first-chance try of a brand new product line created by Kerstin Florian International: ener.g, and the PURE ener.g therapy.

Rooftop pool at The Willow Stream Spa, Monte Carlo

The rooftop pool

In pole position for the annual Grand Prix — and also for lovers of more tranquil pursuits — the Fairmont in Monte Carlo looks out over the sea and the famous “Fairmont” bend. The heated rooftop pool allows you the rare pleasure (for us in the UK) of swimming in December, face upturned to the azure-blue sky as you lazily swim laps. Take a break from all that activity and you can look out over three countries:Monaco, Italy and France.

The hotel rooms are spacious and comfortable, more traditional in decor than modern. The balcony boasts a lounger and table, ideal for breakfast looking out over the sparkling sea. However, the rather unwelcome guests of seagulls were so daring that they made my Brighton birds look positively well mannered. Do NOT feed the gulls!

But what of the spa? Typically Willow Stream, the changing rooms were squeaky-clean, with plenty of fluffy white towels. The relaxation room had comfy chaises, sofas and glossy magazines; although I couldn’t find any English ones, I was happy to flick through the French ones on offer.

PURE ener.g is a 90-minute top-to-toe treatment, starting with an exfoliating footbath, then a full body scrub, ending with a moisturising massage. I had seen one of the treatment rooms which had a huge shower which transformed into a colour-therapy steam room and begged for a chance to try it. I sat on a towel-covered stool, my back against the steamy tiles, and found myself completely zoning out in the darkness as the overhead lightning pulsed from blue, to green, to violet, to red… I stayed there ten minutes but it felt longer and left me pleasantly relaxed.

So, to the start of the treatment proper: my therapist set up the foot bath on the balcony. Wonderful. To be wrapped in a white robe, with the sun on my face in December, felt as good as life could get; until Veronique began scrubbing my feet, then things got even better!

After a scrub and mini-foot massage, Veronique dried me off and pointed towards the couch. She gave me a thorough full-body exfoliation with a “re-mineralising” salt scrub. The ener.g products are a blend of Bergamot, Rose Geranium, Clary Sage and Roman Chamomile – all perfect balancing aromas for women, but not so floral that they would feel “too girly” for men.

Fluffy white towels

Post scrub, it was time for my massage. I was face-down, and my therapist used a series of long, slow, almost hypnotic movements. The combination of the calming, relaxing scent and her firm, expert movements had me like putty in her hands. When it was time to turn over, I have to confess that it was a struggle to stay awake. The rice pillow over my eyes and the hot towel beneath my neck lulled me even deeper into a happily relaxed state of spa-zombie.

After the treatment, I drifted down the corridor towards the relaxation room and curled up on a sofa. I thirstily drank some lemon-water and admired my perfectly polished, deeply moisturised skin.

Getting there: easyJet flies to Nice from Bristol, Edinburgh, Liverpool, London Gatwick, Luton, Newcastle and Stansted. Prices one-way start from £24.99 and include all taxes. Visit www.easyJet.com to book.

Staying there: Room rates from March: from 299 € in a Fairmont double room.

Jasper Park Lodge – the Rocky Mountain Spa

Posted on 26/10/2011 by sustainablespy

So, my last Canadian spa on this trip. I’d checked out the best of the town — what about the country? The journey by cab from Jasper town centre to Jasper Park Lodge is enough on its own to shift you into a more relaxed gear; that’s before setting foot in the spa. As you wind your way towards the entrance, you pass cosy-looking lodge cabins dotted around a shimmering lake surrounded by the Rocky Mountains.

Once inside, you find the usual Fairmont-standard of great service with friendly staff and clean, welcoming lines in the lobby.

The spa and gym complex is downstairs. As I trotted along, my heart sank. I only had two hours in my busy itinerary to spend at the Jasper Park Lodge… Why wasn’t I staying there?! Such a lovely-looking place and the serene-smiling guests that I bumped into along the way all seemed to be having a ball…

So, to the spa, where the team dropped their only point: I had to hunt for someone as there was no-one on reception. Once I’d located one of the spa team, I was in expert hands. I took a brief spa tour. Although this spa isn’t branded as a Fairmont “Willowstream” spa, all of the Willowstream great touches are there, from the cosy blankets and tempting array of fresh fruit and cookies in the relaxation room to the spacious, well-equipped treatment rooms. My favourite was the couples room — complete with a roaring fire!

Spa with a view

The changing rooms were equally pleasing, well-stocked with products and fluffy towels. I was assigned a locker with a robe and spa-slippers. I changed into these before returning to the relaxation room to fill out the consultation questionnaire. I was having such a nice time looking out over the lake and the mesmerising mountain view that I almost didn’t want to leave when Charlie, my therapist, arrived!

It’s rare that I have a male therapist, but I’m always happy when I do, because I love a firm massage and that’s what you always seem to get when it’s a guy. I was having a 60-minute Signature Stress Relief massage. To be truthful, after the cookie and the view, I didn’t have a whole heap of stress to relieve…

My treatment began face-down. I breathed in deep the relaxing essential oil blend that Charlie wafted under my nose… and breathed out. Ahhhh.

I’d never experienced the kind of massage strokes that Charlie used; a kind of medium-pressure with slow, long strokes that really got into those knots around my laptop-hunched shoulders and stiff neck. After a positively drool-inducing back and leg massage, Charlie used a skin-softening foot cream to give me the perfect foot rub. Then it was time to turn over; my neck and head got more of his magic-fingered attention.

I usually have a little *snap, crackle and pop* thing going on with my neck whenever I stretch; after just 60-minutes on the couch at the spa, it had gone. I was hugely impressed. I padded down to the relaxation room to nibble on some more fruit, and drink some cooling cucumber water. Lovely.

The sun was slowly setting over the mountains, the lake was shimmering with golden lights, and I genuinely felt more relaxed and happy than I could remember feeling in a while. The great therapy combined with the perfect views created a real sense of feeling at one with myself and the world around me. Actually, it’s probably a good thing I wasn’t staying; a few more days like that and you’d find me meditating in the woods trying to make friends with the bears… Not a good plan!

Getting there

Fly: Air Canada

Stay: The Fairmont Jasper Park Lodge Spa

Ready, pedi, GO! At the Rosewood Hotel Georgia in Vancouver

Posted on 09/10/2011 by sustainablespy

Back to Canada again! After my adventures in the hot tub on top of the world last year, Vancouver spa-ing had a lot to live up to. This time it was all about Vancouver’s hot new hotel spa, SENSE at the Rosewood Hotel Georgia.

I can’t pretend that I didn’t pout when I discovered that I’d been booked in for a pedicure. A pedicure, I thought? Come on! I wanted to try the “Cocoon” with a glacial honey and maple sugar-scrub, or the “Vancouver Signature Sensation” with a peppermint-and-herb infused scrub and a Vichy shower! How spa’d up could I be from a pedi?

Prepare yourself for a rare and exciting moment: Reader, I was WRONG.

At the SENSE Spa, they managed to create a two-hour-massage level of relaxation from a 50-minute pedicure. Magical!

On the fourth floor of the divinely decadent newly-re-built Rosewood Hotel Georgia, the SENSE spa is just around the corner from the pool and gym. I arrived and was ushered into the changing room and given a robe and slippers. Neat touch in the lockers? A jewellery dish so you could put your trinkets somewhere safe.

Relaxation room at the Rosewood Hotel Georgia

I slipped into my robe and padded through to the relaxation room, where a signature glass of rooibos tea, redolent with vanilla, greeted me. I immediately felt pampered. I curled up in the softly-padded chair and flicked through a glossy magazine. My therapist arrived and took me to the mani/pedi room. The treat in this treatment was the zero-gravity human-touch chairs “with NASA technology”.

A space pedicure?

Well… OK. But this was no ordinary pedicure. Usually, I find pedicures a gossip-y bit of beautification; this pedicure clearly went deeper than that. I began by picking a colour polish and chose a scrub from three different scents (geranium, please!). The polish and products are all vegan-friendly. My therapist gave me a cinnamon-scented heated pillow which wrapped around my neck, melting away all stressed muscles. I lay back in the chair, which she adjusted to a spine-neutral position, and felt instantly and completely cradled, super-stress-free and happy. My therapist spritzed me with something rather heavenly-scented, I closed my eyes, and she began massaging my feet.

Embarrassingly, for a spa writer things got rather vague at this point…

Yes, there was a salt scrub; she smothered a masque on my legs up to my knees; warm towels were definitely involved… some clipping and snipping… I remember the sound of Asian-influenced flute and drum music, and then, and then… I must have snoozed off.

Unthinkable!

I remember beaming away, thinking, “This is how I feel after a l-o-n-g massage. Can I really be this chilled-out over a pedicure?” and then, nothing. Until the soft voice of my therapist telling me that it was over.

I shuffled off back to the relaxation room, regretfully saying no to the offer of another of those wickedly-soothing pillows, to drink a little cucumber water and admire my twinkling tootsies – oh – and try to remember what just happened.

Mood reading for this nail colour

Damn, those NASA chaps seem to have the very best chairs. Just goes to show you: in the right spa, in the right hands, even a basic beautification can be a thing of pure spa-bliss. As I drifted out, with the classic “spa-face” of wibbly joy, there was one more treat at reception; my chosen colour was also a mood-reading: balance, the diplomat, and living in the moment.
Yup – all that sounds about right.

If you’re not lucky enough to stay in the 100% hotel heaven of the Rosewood Hotel Georgia, then make sure you at least get to try the spa. Really, the pedicure is perfect…

Getting there

Fly: Air Canada

Stay: The Rosewood Hotel Georgia

A gem of a spa in Paris

Posted on 26/06/2011 by sustainablespy

The English-sounding St James Hotel is a very French slice of eccentric chateau luxury in Paris’s 16th arrondissement on the right bank. The hotel is also a private members’ club with a gym, gloriously leather-upholstered library and reading room, and a beautiful restaurant overlooking chic gardens. Recently renovated, it’s an Alice in Wonderland blend of black-and-white checkered squares, sweeping staircases, and quirky balloon-themed (thanks to its past as a hot air balloon launching site!) uber-design.

The St James Hotel

Despite my reluctance to tear myself away and see if I could score a room for the night, I eventually (after drooling at the dining room) went downstairs to find the spa.

The spa at the St James is a Gemology spa. Gemology spas use precious stones in both the products and treatments that are completely paraben-free. I had my mind changed on the use of precious metals and gem stones in products when I tried Dibi’s Gold Performance last year. Amazing. I loved it! Infuriatingly, the treatment had an equally golden price tag. Happily, the Gemology Spa is reasonably-priced, once you factor in that whole getting-to-Paris thing, anyway…

So, I put myself in my therapist’s hands and asked her to choose what I should have. Oh boy, was I in for a treat: a wrap, exfoliation and massage. We began with aanti-ageing wrap which contained garnet, along with raspberries and cranberries, which was quite possibly the most delicious fruity-smelling treatment I’ve ever received. Only the thought of the garnet stopped me taking a surreptitious lick! Whilst the wrap did its work, my therapist gave me an eye-rollingly good head massage.

Time to shower off. A word here about the difference between French and British levels of, um, intimacy. Usually, our therapists disappear outside when we get undressed, get into the shower, out of the shower, and so on. Not in France. Oh no. Be ready for that!

Gemstones used in the treatments

Back on the couch again for my 30-minute relaxing massage. I really enjoy hot-stone and lava-shell treatments but had never experienced a massage with a hot gem stone. My therapist used a series of warmed rose quartz stones, along with an oil blend which included peridot, ylang ylang and orange. I love a new massage experience, and this was quite superb. My skin felt like it was soaking up the minerals in the oil and the warmth of the stones, expertly wielded by my therapist, soothed any tense knots.

Finally, when I was little more than a happy pile of Spy, curled up on the couch, my therapist began my exfoliation treatment. Using citrine, with volcanic mud and thermal water from New Zealand, the exfoliant gave my already glowing, super-moisturised skin an extra level of softness that lasted for days.

I loved everything about the Gemology Spa. It’s very small, just two therapy rooms, so you’ll be given incredibly good service as there’s no sense of being on a treatment conveyor belt. I loved the innovative treatments and the products, too. When I left, they gave me a few samples to try, so I’m now saving for a sapphire and lapis-lazuli-based moisturiser for sensitive skin! The only danger is, if you stay at the St James hotel and enjoy the spa, there’s a chance you might not see anything else of Paris — it’s too nice to leave!

Find out more:

The Saint James hotel and spa

Villa Thalgo

Posted on 17/06/2011 by sustainablespy

I’m a big fan of all things sea-weedy and algae based. If you remember, I even tried to create my own DIY seaweed spa on a quiet patch of Brighton beach last year! This year finds me in France, so in complete contrast to my low-fi experience, I was invited to check out Paris’s Villa Thalgo, a swanky subterranean spa around the corner from the Champs Elysee.

Thalgo products, like many French brands, are firmly focussed on results: in this case, firming, smoothing and soothing skin, reducing cellulite (the French are obsessed with cellulite!) and anti-ageing. You can read some more about Thalgo’s products when the Spies tested them, but what are the treatments like? Well… as relaxing as a day at the seaside!

Villa Thalgo was spacious, with a welcoming reception packed with Thalgo goodies, including their organic Terre et Mer range. When I arrived in the morning, the small mineral pool was full of Parisian ladies solemnly working out to aqua-aerobics. The changing rooms are large and well-equipped with hairdryers, fluffy robes, towels and slippers. I arrived early so had time to slip into the sizzlingly-hot steam room and soak up some of the mineral-enriched steam. After twenty minutes, I crept out, feeling deliciously snoozy and went for a lie-down in the relaxation room with a cup of herb tea. Low-lit with comfy loungers and jellyfish art (again with the jellyfish!) I was nodding off when my therapist arrived.

First up was a classic Thalgo treatment, the three-algae wrap. There’s no getting around it, algae does not smell good; there’s a whiff of the mackerel about it and no, that is not the spa-smell I’d usually go for, but at least it was warm. As my therapist cheerfully slathered my back in noxious-smelling goo, I reflected that it could be worse. I lay back and squidged against the wrap as my therapist deftly coated the rest of my body in algae, and, as it’s France, that meant breasts, too! Fully-covered, I was then tucked into the wrap, covered in a heated blanket and left to “cook” for twenty minutes while I received a heavenly head massage. Once my time was up, I hopped into the shower in the room and was hosed down until I was algae-free. I left with skin that felt noticeably firmer. Impressive.

Treatment Room at the Villa Thalgo

As I’d admired the organic Terre et Mer products on the way in, I opted to try a facial using them. This was a real high point, and has raised the bar for me when it comes to facials. For a start, the treatment began with a back massage. I love it when this happens in a facial: you completely relax. (You also feel like you’re having two treatments instead of one!)

Then, for almost an hour, my therapist pampered my skin with a seemingly-endless range of lotions, potions and masks, each smelling more delicious than the last. Created with natural plants, herbs, and of course, algae, from the Mediterranean, the range includes orange blossom, crushed almonds, olives, sunflowers. Terre et Mer claim to not just be about nourishing and moisturising, and I agree; in typical French-style, these products deliver impressive results, too. A double-cleanse, a gentle scrub, a very creamy facial massage, warm oil drizzled on my skin for another massage, and a soothing mask. While the mask “set”, she treated me to another head massage. At this point, I may have dozed off… When I awoke, the mask was peeled off, and the treatment ended with a final layer of moisturiser.

I floated to the relaxation rooms, feeling seriously chilled out — rare for me, whenever I have a treatment, my mind is usually buzzing with thoughts of how to describe it, worries I’ll forget what happened, but this time – total switch off! I had lunch with a girlfriend afterwards who commented on how good my skin looked. I had a definite dewy glow and those faint lines around my eyes were smoothed away. (Alas, only till the next day!) My skin looked noticeably better all week.

You don’t have to travel to Paris to try Thalgo treatments, (but oh – it’s so worth it if you do!). The Eden Hall Spa and St David’s Hotels and spa work with the Terre et Mer range too.

The hills are alive… with the sound of spa-ing!

Posted on 07/06/2011 by sustainablespy

If you’ve ever spent time staring up at the stars whilst you laze in an outdoor hot tub, you’ll know that there’s something special about experiencing those sort of delights outdoors. A MIND-sponsored study carried out by the University of Essex has shown that there’s a definite link between spending time surrounded by nature and boosting your mental and physical health.

The MIND study showed that, after a walk in the countryside, 71% of people reported a decrease in depression, and 90% felt their self-esteem increase. Ecotherapy, as it’s called, can also lower blood pressure and reduce stress. Which is probably why I felt so utterly delighted in the thermal baths at Les Thermes du Saint-Gervais.

Brand new this year, “Les Bains du Mont-Blanc” are an exceptionally well-designed addition to the existing spa and traditional medical centre. The thermal waters aid recovery for those suffering from a wide range of ailments, from asthma and bronchitis to eczema. There is a huge wellness centre at the spa, the second-largest in France, but I was there to experience the softer side of the waters.

I was promised a “seven-stage multi-sensory experience“. To my amazement, the hype didn’t even come close to describing just how fabulous it was. The first stop was the “dry area” where I lolled in a ’60s-style egg-chair while breathing in scented purified air, surprisingly relaxing. Next, was a darkened room filled with giant bean bags. I settled down and looked up — the ceiling showed a film of jellyfish! Teamed with the gentle whale-song-meets-Ministry-of-Sound-Chill-Out music, it was oddly hypnotic.

Feeling suitably jellyfish-like, I tried the two steam rooms: one at 46°, the next at 48° — both glitteringly clean — before cooling down in a 36° bath of thermal water. I laid back and floated, I could see the trees outside, and I felt great.

The warm waters of Thermes Saint Gervais

Best of all was the hydrotherapy area outdoors which is kept at 36.5° all year round; perfect for post-skiing. The hydrotherapy area was superbly-designed, with a whole range of different “stations” with jets of varying powers at different heights to pummel the whole body. My beloved aqua loungers were there, as well as a brand-new (to me) experience: a pool area that mimicked the sensation of being in a glass of champagne! Tiny bubbles felt delicious on my skin.

Looking out from the pool, you’re surrounded by vivid green tall trees in the shadow of Mont Blanc, breathing in that fresh mountain air. Best. Outdoor. Facilities. EVER!

Penultimate stage was a relaxation beanbag, curtained away by muslin drapes, where I topped up on water and nibbled on dried fruit. The two-hour “bains” experience ended with a mini-facial massage with a hydrating cream. A 150-minute session costs as little as 29 euros. Superb value!

But my time wasn’t up; I wanted to see what the treatments were like, too. I tried an Alpine mud body wrap with warm mud that left my skin feeling toned and silky. However, my new Must-Do treatment was a Massage du Mont Blanc.

You lie on the couch, below four shower heads in a row, which rain down warm thermal water on your body throughout the whole treatment. The thermal water was just strong enough to provide a gentle massage on my back. My therapist then gave me an outstanding full-body massage, using oil! The treatment is messy and not suitable for the body-shy: I stripped to just bikini bottoms and realised after a minute that the water spraying up my nose, in my ears — everywhere! But it didn’t matter. My always-stiff neck was loose afterwards. Miraculous! A day later, my skin still feels superb.

Thanks to Saint-Gervais Tourist Board for all their help setting this up.

Ice Spa, Baby…

Posted on 21/05/2011 by sustainablespy

It was hard to suppress my gurgles of delight when I paddled into the wet area of St Gervais-les-Bains’ Ice Spa. It was as if someone had made a list of all my favourite spa toys, then installed them in one big shiny room in the middle of the mountains!

So, a brief intro: I’m in France at the moment, checking out what our continental cousins are up to in Spa World. So far, things are looking good. In the shadow of Mont Blanc, the small ski resort of St Gervais-les-Bains is the only Alpine region with its very own spa scene thanks to its natural hot springs (in which I shall be taking a dip next week). The good news for spa bunnies on a budget who hate the cold is that the Rhone Alps region is absolutely beautiful and, during the “off” season in May, the weather is gloriously warm. There are barely any tourists around and you can enjoy cut-price deals everywhere.

The Ice Spa is a slow 15-minute stroll up the hill. I was immediately impressed by how glitteringly clean the Ice Spa was. The changing rooms are fairly compact with a key-pad code locker system. Once changed and in my fluffy white robe and disposable “claquettes” (I guess French for flip-flops!) I went through into the main “bar” area.

Space-age 60s-style chairs were dotted around with mood-enhancing colour-changing lights. Ice Spa is the perfect place to go with a group, although I was quite happy by myself. The bar area serves up delicious fruit-based juices and drinks. I tried the house special, a Virgin Mojito, a refreshing rum-free blend of mint and lime.

The green and blue waters of The Ice Spa

You access the wet area through a pebble-floored corridor and walk through blue-and-green lit water. I loved it! The main room has a Jacuzzi, a large aqua lounger area with both air and water jets, a steam room, sauna, and two experience showers. Where to start?

I first encountered aqua loungers on the NCL Epic spa and have been hunting them down ever since; there are some great ones at SenSpa at Carey’s Manor, too. You lie back on an underwater lounger, press a button and whoosh! Jets of water massage you from your neck to your ankle! The air-and-water jets delivered a pleasingly-firm pummelling to my stiff neck and achy lower back. The experience showers ticked every box, too: an uplifting mandarin scent and gentle tropical rain in one, and a hot/cold gentle/firm rush from the other, with jets placed at varying heights from your feet to a glorious drenching shower overhead.

The Ice Spa is a terrific bargain. Prices start from just 13€ for a two-hour visit; the 25€ “Confort Plus” special buys you two hours of spa time, a drink, snack, robe and claquettes. The massage menu seems comprehensive with everything from hot stone to “California” massages.

Getting there: Sustainable Spy loves to let the train take the strain. Hop on Eurostar, have a spot of lunch at the L’Express Bleu (at a fraction of the price of the famous Train Bleu restaurant) at the Gare du Lyon, then board the St Gervais train, which takes you through stunning mountain scenery. You’ll be happy and relaxed before you’ve even arrived! Raileurope offers a £171 standard class return fare from London to St Gervais Les Bains.

Bliss at the Blue Lagoon spa in Iceland

Posted on 19/04/2011 by sustainablespy

Readers of this blog will know that when it comes to steamy heat, or water therapy, I’m a huge fan. Combine the two, in dazzling natural surroundings, and it’s hard to imagine a more delighted Spy.

Visiting the Blue Lagoon has always been on my Must-Do list. A trip to Reykjavik to see the Northern Lights meant that I was finally able to visit. Reykjavik Excursions picked me up directly from my hotel. As I was flying back to the UK later that day, they securely stored my luggage at the Lagoon gates. The outing is the perfect pre- or post-flight tonic as the Blue Lagoon lies half-way between the airport and Reykjavik town centre.

The snowy road

It was snowing when I arrived. Icy winds blew, bringing the temperatures to a frosty -10°C. The sky was dove grey. The path that led to the Lagoon twisted and turned with snow-flecked volcanic black rocks lining the path on each side. On the bus trip, I’d caught tantalising glimpses of steam rising, from what I guessed was the Lagoon on the horizon.

The hidden entrance made me feel that I was about to experience something a little magical.

The reception area was smart, clean, and far more modern than I’d pictured. A recent refurbishment and expansion has created a truly stylish space, with a cafe bar and restaurant area with stunning views over the Lagoon. Check-in was swift. I opted to try the exclusive lounge, which gives you access to your own locked private changing and shower room, and also a relaxing VIP lounge with fresh fruit, herb teas and bowls of delicious chocolates! I loved that you could access the lagoon though a private swim-through door, too. Very ritzy.

Running barefoot through the snow to reach the steaming Lagoon, with its milky-blue water, is something that will stay with me forever. I’m a total coward when it comes to the hot/cold thing, even though I know how good it is for you! But when in Iceland, do as the Icelanders do…

The waters beckon

So, with my feet numb from the snowy cold, I splashed into the pool and felt the hot-bath-warmth of the thermal water instantly heat my chilly body — and make my feet tingle!

The silky-soft geothermal water is silica-rich, and silica has impressive healing and anti-ageing properties.

My skin definitely felt smooth after a few hours bobbing around, and somehow tighter, more youthful-looking, too. One warning: the silica plays havoc with your hair!

My advice: load up your hair with conditioner and wear a bathing cap!

I’d booked in for a 20-minute water massage. To the side of the main lagoon was a quiet, smaller pool area. Here, therapists dressed in warm hats and waterproof fleeces were in the water, gently steering around blissed-out clients on inflatable beds, covered in waterproof blankets!

Once I’d managed to rather gracelessly climb on board my floating bed, my therapist covered me in a blanket, which initially felt chilly, but, as the warm water penetrated, heated up. I slipped down the straps of my swimming costume and wriggled it down to my waist. I was still completely covered up, though, and didn’t feel at all embarrassed. My therapist applied a generous coating of oil to my back and began a gentle massage, applying pressure between the inflatable bed and my back, neck and arms.

The waters are essentially self-cleaning as the lagoon holds six million litres of geo-thermal brine, all of which is renewed in 40 hours. While my massage was going on, my therapist slowly towed me around the pool. My eyes were closed. I was conscious only that I was floating, slowly moving, and feeling probably more womb-like than I’d felt in 40 years! It was an amazing experience. The breathtakingly beautiful surroundings, combined with the expert pressure-point and smooth-strokes massage that I received in such an unusual way, was absolutely fantastic. I’m already planning a summer visit back to see what Iceland is like when the sun stays up for days on end!

Behind the scenes with the Good Spa Spies

It's always nice to have a bit of a lie-down

Author Archives: sustainablespy